Red Is Life

The Passing of Our Beloved H. Buff Herr

Dear Friends,

It is with a heavy heart that we must share with you that our friend, husband, father, amazing human being has passed away. He was so very special and he touched all of us in so many ways.

Born May 4, 1947, died November 2, 2010. Consummate New Yorker, photographer extraordinaire, computer guru. A lover of fine food, fine wine, and fine women. A man's man, an urban cowboy, erudite, well read and intellectually curious. He leaves behind an adoring wife and daughter, Maki B. Podell and Emma Storm. Sister Elisa, brother Laurin & mother Cholris, and friends in most times zones. Complex and flawed, he will always be with us.

The Herr/Podell Family

Post BP Oysters R Smaller

Daughter gave me the heads up before I headed down to NOLA – post BP spill – as the bed are being reopened - “oysters just aren't the same” - “they're different” - shrugged it off – proclaiming – intensifying – my determination to find out for myself -

Looking for “last night in NOLA supper” - we opted out of “the big – fancy – formal meal” - headed to Acme -

The line was intense – but we had the magic card – seated at a long table – sharing with some conference attendees – Natasha took our order -

• Oyster Shooters – I bought for ourselves – and – those we were sharing the table with -
• Dozen Char Broiled (Oysters) -
• Two Dozen Raw (Oysters) -
• Mint Julep -
• Vodka rocks -
• Diet Coke

We waited -

• Char Broiled came first – small - covered with grated cheese and sauce – small amount of meat – wrote it off to shrinkage from cooking – tasty – though a bit too much salt -
• Raw came about 5 minutes later – small – embarrassingly small – I flashed on Kumimotos from the west coast – where were the big – ice cold – luscious Louisiana Oysters I had come so far for – i.e. - they were not to be – these were maybe a quarter of the size I had feverishly consumed only 4 months earlier – were these even from Louisiana –

Drinks came -

• Vodka OK
• Mint Julep was weak – weaker – weakest – drinker asked waitress to correct – she brought another “shot” of bourbon – much better but no comparison to Bourbon House masterpiece just an hour before – and – when the chit was rendered – charged for the correction (extra shot) – life was too short that night to call them on it -
• Oyster Shooters – in a mini shot “plastic” - again very small oyster – the presentation – none on the “fun” previously experienced when downing Acme's shooters – more a dirty shot of vodka with something in the bottom -

During the height of the spill – as oyster farmers and shuckers – shut down – a survey of New Orleans restaurants revealed who had - who was without oysters – Acme proudly proclaimed that they were never without - “a secret source” - could that have been Florida – or – points beyond – may never know – they are not about to reveal - i.e. oysters were different -

Did two dozen more – hoping it would get better – did not happen – did have great Gumbo – Beans & Rice – touch of Sausage – deep fried Soft Shell Crab – Fried Oysters (still small – though not a bright a flag) -

First time sitting at an Acme table – fun was had by all -

Next time - back to the counter – Shucker putting Oysters in front of you as-soon-as the shell is popped – that's the way to go – particularly in this time of change – which this writer – lover of Oysters - can only hope is transitional – until the Crassostrea Virginica - (Louisiana Oyster) returns to their former glory - 

Prisoner Release

Release event for - The Prisoner - 2009 -upstairs at Sherry Lehman - Park Avenue - they did it proud - 

First wrote of Orin Swift Winery's cult product - Punishment This Ain't - 2004 - bought my first bottles of 2002  - its been an ongoing love affair - but all affairs have their ups-and-downs - 

New release is the same alc.15.2% - lots f fruit - price has crept up to 34.95 (used to be 23.95) - taste is distinctly sharper - spicy - has the blend changed - might be a heavier Zin - lacking the mellowed sense of field blend - the rounded edges that allowed opening a bottle with anything - at anytime - with a price consideration - 

Will pass on this release - wait for return to Prisoner more in tune with the past - 

 

Slim Goodies

Every-time I've tried to eat at Slim Goodies Dinner in the past – they have been “just closing” - or - maybe – I was too late - to get into this "large" hole-in-the-wall - 

Looking for Sunday's lunch – without doing the usual 10 mile drive – accompanied by a major sit down with drinks – followed by the inevitable slowdown - culminating in a nap – we made it – at the right time - it was the right meal -

Wonderful coffee – impeccable service – particularly when you remember its a diner (stupid) - graphic art on the walls - loved the poster from Tennessee over the men's urinal - staff sporting many tattoos - everyone in tight - after waiting via  DIY guest list - 

• Creole Slammer - Crawfish Etoufee atop Scrambled Eggs (your choice of type) atop Hash Browns with a Biscuit - sure - the hash browns could have been browner - would have happily settled for 100% etoufee - more - More - MORE - 
• Orleans Slammer - Eggs (w/wo Cheese) atop Bacon atop Chili atop Hash Browns with a Biscuit - only got to taste - lots of flavor - very hearty for the perfectly petitie woman who consumed every morsel - 
• Tex-Mex Slammer - Eggs atop Melted Cheese atop Black Beans atop Hash Browns w/ Salsa - Sour Cream - Avocado - Plantains with Tortillas for wrapping - the local had her favorite - 
• Black Coffee - Iced Coffees - Diet Coke - 

Just great no frills food with a touch of funk - do it yourself - and - don't be late - 

Domenica

Floating in the middle of large white bowl containing a shallow pour of rich - Vellutata Di Fungi aka wild mushroom soup - with all its wonderful rainbow of flavors - a thick - single piece of toast covered in wild mushroom duxelle -  drizzled with truffle oil - OMG - need more be written about John Besh's latest creation ?? - 

The space is open - clean - modern - yet warm - every table has breathing room - the table tops a touch deeper than usual - service was good - not four star - a strong two - 

We ordered cocktails - soup - salad - panini - pizza - everything was the freshest - 

Of note from the menu - 

• Bolzano - roast pork shoulder - fennel - apples - bacon - pizza - the crust was full - taste flashed back to Luke's onion tart - no relation to NYC or traditional pizza - the topping was a meal unto itself - tender pork - cut into bite sized pieces - not pulled - the apples and bacon carmelized candy - too much for one big guy - like me - 
• Grilled Market Vegetables - panini - goat cheese - arugula - olive oil - simplicity - smiles on consumption -
• Vellutata Di Fungi - see above
• Fried Testini- whole grain mustard pickles and arugula - they should be a bit more forward with what exactly this is - i.e. head cheese - passed on this panini

With more time - dinner is a "next trip" must do - particularly for 

• Black Drum - ceci puree - tomatoes - olives - caperberries

Heard - saw (briefly) - custom pizza ordering/POS - incorporates iPad - tech talk of the locals - 

Negatives - charged for Diet Coke refills - was it company policy - was the server trying to boost the lunch chit - with more time would have questioned the manager -

For now - just enjoy'd the lunch and dining partners - 

Bourbon House

"What bourbon would you that that made with" – the bartender asked – when I ordered a Mint Julep for my wife at Dickie Brennan's Bourbon House on right on Bourbon Street in NOLA -

A moment's hesitation – taken aback with the question – one I had never been asked when ordering the same drink at various bars around the country – (over the years) – "Woodford" – I replied – and - into the perfectly crushed ice was the Woodford generously poured -

O n e....S u p e r b....Mint Julep – fully appreciated - 

Ordered a Bloody Mary for my daughter – delivering a smile of satisfaction - 

Scanned the restaurant's extensive bourbon list for myself - looking for the unique – something not had before – there - under Rye – 21 year old Vintage – AND – 23 year old Vintage -

23 year old Vintage Rye – on the rocks – ultra smooth – mellowed – with the slight tang - sharpness - that distinguishes rye from its corn based bourbon brethren – perfect -

Price for this rare consumable - $14 – less than half the price that would likely be charged in a "brown spirit friendly" NYC bar - 

Squeezing his arm through the maze of customers crowding the bar – the bartender passed me my drink - I asked if he had - "anything unique ... unusual ... not on the list" -

“I'll have to check...” - as he moved back into his behind-the-bar space - 

Ten minutes later – as we got ready to move next door to Acme for a supper of oyster madness – the bartender (Adam) - reappeared -  offering up a bottle of - Henry Mckenna 10 year old - “just came in ... one of the other bartender's tried it ... ultra smooth....” - too late for this round - had to take a rain check – bummer - 

Have passed by Bourbon House - dozens of times - over the years – despite its name – and - my love of the brown spirit - judgement was always - too big – too slick – too much a hotel bar/restaurant - it was a tourist trap – but  - experience can change even the most hardened mindset – the bartender's were people who were going to take care of my indulgences – and the oyster bar – which I did not get to experience -  looked like it was going to be a similarly positive event -

I've put it on the "must" list - full session - next trip to NOLA - 

Bursting Bacon Bubble Bombastic Blathering

The Wall Street Journal's recent article - The Bacon Backlash - proffers that the public's love of bacon is waning - that its incorporation in everything from mashed potatoes to bourbon - its spotlighted position in the 100% bacon burger - is coming to an end - 

Hogwash - 

UWS News

• Moving into old Garlic Bob space next to Gristides - Subway Sandwiches
• Moving into old Senor Swanky (Merchant's) space across from Subway - Zen Palate
• Just opened at 72nd & Broadway across from Gray's Papaya - Trader Joe's (no wine)

 

Feudo Di Santa Tresa Vendemmia

Saw a note online advising air before drinking - decanted - which I don't normally do at this price point - tasted before - tighter than a drum - tasted after - loosened up - quick enjoyable - very sold - slight spice - rich tones - 70% Nero d'Avola - 30% Cabernet Sauvignon - could have had a few more softened edges- guess that what the Cab was supposed to do - as high as $15 per - Jerry's (NY) sold it to me at 8.95 - will buy more - lay it down - take it from mere "bang for the buck" - to - "super !! bang for the buck" - 

Louie's

Louie's used to the the classic - run down - informal - super busy in the summer - down on the pier - mediocre food - seafood restaurant - all about the atmosphere - 

Now - someone has pumped a HUGE amount of $$$ into Louie's - shucking station is behind a large glass window when you walk in - displayed and showcased - though only three types -  large bar soars skyward - you no longer have to worry that the deck is going to give out if you step too hard - its a real restaurant - no long run down - still informal - super busy in the summer - winterized for the rest of the year - the food remains mediocre - its all about the atmosphere - its entertainment - 

• Hama Hama from Wash State were creamy - 
• PerfectBlue Points elicited raves - 
• Smoky Lobster Bisque - slight touch of smoke - rich - creamy - flavorful - luke warm - should have been hotter - 
• Linguine with Clam Sauce - overcooked - 1/3 left behind - 
• Steamed Lobster - perfect - but requests for "baked" - strongly discouraged by wait staff
• Baked Clams - good not great - 
• Grilled Scallops - excellent - but again with the lack of heat - resulting in less than favorable experience - 
• Shoestring French Fries - excellent - 

The waitstaff was great - but dependent on the kitchen - which put them into apology mode too often -

Overall fun - for what it was - and will continue to be - 

 

Black Cherry Tomatoes

Rich harvest of Cherry Tomatoes @ Sunday's 77th St. farmers' market - in particular - boxes of of Black Cherry Tomatoes - dark purple - some stridation - firm - sweeter than the reds - a bargain at $3.00 lbs -

A mixed bag - Black Cherry - Reds - Yellows - polished off in about 48 hours - preferred ice cold from the fridge -

Can't wait for next week to replenish -

LeCompte

Blow away by an after-tasting "nip" of LeCompte 12 Year Old - and I'm not a regular fan of Calvados - at any age -

Crisp - against the smoothness of age - showing a brandy's vibrant strength - wrapping one in warmth  - LeCompte trances its roots back only 75 years - accelerating after WWII - you pay by age -  2- 5 - 12 - 15 - 20 and 1982 - one can only look for the opportunity to taste them all -

Perhaps not the perfect companion (Cognac) on a beach front porch for Partagas Robusto Maduro - but close enough - 16 floors above Manhattan - sans cigar -

Tks Bill -

Schnipper's

Schnipper's - big - slick - storefront in the New York Times Building - across from PA Bus Terminal - its a fancy burger joint - way above MacDonald's/Burger King - lacking the warmth/cultiness of Shack Shack -

Designed for efficiency - you order - get a pager or awkward table stand with number attached - wait for your order to be brought to you -

Bacon Cheese Burger - good taste - (estimate) 1/3 # burger - few pieces of broken bacon - lettuce - tomato - sauce - pickle that was way too strong - medium well was very well done - roll was a waste - flat - doughy - lacked the "cheapness" of many fun burger joint buns - while not attaining any sense of crust that you might enjoy picking at - tore large pieces away - a downer to the burger experience

French Fries - appear frozen shoe strings - good not great - asked for well done - that's not in the vocabulary - asked the "server" if the FF could be browned - responded in limited English that "you have to buy the sauce" - i.e. - not worth the effort - doubt it could even be done -

Diet Coke - self serve - endless refills - that was good

In fairness - Schnipper's has an extensive menu - Sides - Mac & Cheese - Hot Dogs - Chicken - Seafood - Sandwiches - Dessert - in all variations - but their flagship only reached half staff -

Art Beyond Photoshop

In our ever digital world - Painting A Flower On Water - is an analog reminder that there is Art beyond Photoshop - an inspiring 6:06 minute video -

Enjoy

Lazzara's Square Pizza

Small - 3 white table-clothed tables - wrap around counter just deep enough for one's plate - how could you not walk in to find out what Lazzara's is about -

Its ultra thin - square pizza - 6 pcs per pie - $1.50 per pc - all day long - soooooo goooood !!!!

Sauce is rich - cheese is plentiful - variety is limitless -

• Plain - can't go wrong
• Homemade grilled mushrooms - a far far cry from traditional tasteless t-shirt pizza mushroom slices -
• Homemade grilled eggplant - one full circular slice almost covering the entire Lazzara square -
• Crisp crust - snapping (almost) with the first bite -

Took home two pies Friday night - retained heat - no excess grease - fiercest critics raved - cursed being exposed to pizza that was beyond the delivery zone - just wonderful stuff -

Morning after - cold from the refrigerator - still unique - never "doughy" - just great !!!

All tasting done at 9th Avenue btwn 43rd & 44th

Deep Fried Bacon

Report from Houston - Texas - specifically - Christian's Tailgate Bar & Grill - deep fried bacon - dipped in batter - fried - served with their Country Fried Bacon Burger - 1/2 lb buger - two strips of country fried bacon - onion rings - all the trimmings - incl french fries - 8.95 - plus something extra if you want cheese -

Go for it -

Chef to Priest - Redux

June - noted Upperline's Chef Ken Smith was leaving the kitchen to join the Church -

August - follow up by - Brett Anderson - Times Picayune - Former Upperline Chef Donates Cookbook Collection To Local Museum - over 2000 volumes -

To Chef Smith - who's food I have personally enjoyed - God's Speed -

 

 

Solid Red Champagne

Usually buy Cherry Tomatoes packed in a plastic cube - sometimes they're semi sweet'ish - other times sour - in winter they take on the taste of potatoes - i.e. - neutral - no flavor - are they really tomatoes -

In spring - relief comes in a large - open - box - at the end of one of Fairway's produce aisles - with the arrival of Champagne Cherry Tomatoes from The Little French Tomato Co - aka - Sunset Brand -

Ultra sweet - low calorie - 3.3 calories per pc - 64 pcs per pound - i.e. - 224 calories per pound - you could stock your refrig with Hersey Kisses - but these are much healthier - they taste like tomatoes -

Warning - its easy to eat a pound (4.99) -

Steak At The Bar (Sort Of)

Hilariously review of Abe & Arthur's based on busting through the velvet rope to "grab a bite" at the bar - we've all been there - never able to answer "why" -

Who's next on Max Silvestri's list - can't wait -

Donut Go To Abe & Arthur's - 080310 - Eater - Max Silvestri

El Nuevo Caridad

Crossing the Triboro - back from LI - heading down 2nd - wife was hungry - don't know why we picked El Nuevo Caridad - but for whatever reason - we luck'd out -

The food is great - Mofongo (a mashed mound of plantains into which a combination of seafood, meat, or vegetables is added) - Fried Plantains - Red Beans & Rice (prefer the yellow) - Shrimp in Garlic (rich creamy sauce) - literally a hundred items - seafood - pollo - pork - have to try the Butterfly Shrimp Wrapped In Bacon - maybe a grilled Red Snapper or the Carlos Beltran (Cuban Sandwich with Mango Shake) -

I've seen many sizzle plates - but the plume from the grilled Skirt Stak was a show stopper - kissing the ceiling on it way to the dining room -

Walls are covered in baseball memorabiliea - the hall of fame speciaites are named for Latino baseball stars - past and present -

We keep coming back - sometimes making a special trip from the UWS to the heart of Spanish Harlem for this understated culinary treat -

Its always been takeout - but if we can get the right crew - a sit-down dinner would be a blast -